Papeete to Papeete

Papeete is the center of the tropical paradise of French Polynesia where islands fringed with gorgeous beaches and turquoise ocean await to soothe the soul. This spirited city is the capital of French Polynesia and serves as a superb base for onward exploration of Tahiti – an island of breathtaking landscapes and oceanic vistas. A wonderful lagoon of crisp clear water begs to be snorkelled stunning black beaches and blowholes pay tribute to the island's volcanic heritage and lush green mountains beckon you inland on adventures as you explore extraordinary Tahiti. Visit to relax and settle into the intoxicating rhythm of life in this Polynesian paradise.

Moorea is a high mountainous island with two nearly symmetrical bays found on the north coast. The island’s triangular shape has been likened to a heart or a bat. Eight mountain peaks reaching a height of up to 1,207 meters give Moorea a very rugged silhouette. The reef surrounding the island encloses a narrow lagoon –a RAMSAR Wetland- and has barely any motu (reef islets). Sharks and rays are some of the lagoon’s attractions. The island is only one eighth the size of neighboring Tahiti and has a more relaxed life-style. A road leads around Moorea, passing small villages with their churches and the resorts and smaller hotels mainly found on the north coast. A detour into the interior will show large pineapple plantations, French Polynesia’s only agricultural school, ancient marae (stone platforms) and splendid views of the island from Belvedere above Cook’s Bay or the Magic Mountain above Papetoai, Opunohu Bay. Many of the 18,000 residents work in Tahiti, taking one of the ferries plying between Vaiare on the east coast and Papeete. This led to Papeete being one of France’s busiest ports in passenger volume. Foreign visitors either come into Temae airport, tucked in-between the Green Pearl golf course and Temae’s public beach, or by ship entering one of the two bays on the north coast. Both bays are connected to Captain Cook’s visit in 1777: he stayed in Opunohu Bay, but to honor him Pao Pao Bay has been named Cook’s Bay.

Known as the "Sacred Island," Raiatea is a fascinating haunt for archaeologists and historians as it's one of the islands in the Pacific where Polynesian culture can trace its roots. Visitors will find many of the older Polynesian structures still in place and are fascinating places to explore. In the 16th century, Raiatea developed a powerful cult dedicated to Oro the God of War and built a large meeting ground, the Taputaputea Marae, which is still intact. Human sacrifice was practiced until around the middle of the 18th century and visitors should look for the sacrificial stone. Several tour operators run visits to the marae (ancient temples) along with some degree of informed commentary—although in fairness Polynesian storytelling can embellish things a little. The Faaroa River is the only navigable waterway in French Polynesia and it can be traveled by powerboat or outrigger canoe. Running through the Faaroa Gorge it passes some spectacular scenery with steep-walled jungle foliage holding dozens of bird species and wild hibiscus. Trekking up Mount Temehani, a well-known landmark that's said to be Oro's birthplace, is relatively demanding. Keep a lookout for the rare, five-petal tiare apetahi. Said to be impossible to grow anywhere else, this white, indigenous flower can only be found above 1,300 feet (396 meters). Look, but don't touch. It's against the law to pick them. Dining Raiatea has a good selection of restaurants with an across-the-board selection of food ranging from French to Polynesian, Chinese, and Italian. This is a "boatie" or "yachtie" type environment with a number of the better-known dining places clustered around Uturoa's harbor; things can get quite busy on Friday and Saturday nights. Seafood is always outstanding on the menu but the selection should satisfy most diners, though they may find the wine list more constricting. It should perhaps be pointed out that many of the restaurants are as much noted for their outstanding views or sunsets as for the food. Another way of dining are les roulottes which are found here and on other islands in Polynesia. The name means basically "rolling food trucks" and they supply simple island food, usually on the cheap side. They are a favorite of many locals who either eat at the truck or take the food home. Hotels There are only two hotels on the island but a number of pensions or lodging places. Shopping As is typical across the Pacific, the locals in Raiatea shop for fresh food, including fish, at the local market. Located near the harbor on the main street, the market also sells arts and crafts. It opens at sunrise, and Wednesday and Friday are the busiest days. The freshest produce is sold on Sunday, but before dawn—the market closes at 7 am on Sunday. Jean Luc Liaut Both islands have an active community of artisans, but one of the more unusual is Jean Luc Liaut, a native Raiatean whose fishing boat Te Manu Ata is based in Uturoa and is available for charter. He has turned handmade fishing lures into an art form, and his products are sought globally. Hawaiki Nui Federation The usual art and handicraft shops sell a wide variety of woodcarvings and shell and pearl items, with most guaranteed to have been locally made. Local artists often sell at the Hawaiki Nui Federation at Uturoa airport and the Maritime Harbor.

Known as the "Sacred Island," Raiatea is a fascinating haunt for archaeologists and historians as it's one of the islands in the Pacific where Polynesian culture can trace its roots. Visitors will find many of the older Polynesian structures still in place and are fascinating places to explore. In the 16th century, Raiatea developed a powerful cult dedicated to Oro the God of War and built a large meeting ground, the Taputaputea Marae, which is still intact. Human sacrifice was practiced until around the middle of the 18th century and visitors should look for the sacrificial stone. Several tour operators run visits to the marae (ancient temples) along with some degree of informed commentary—although in fairness Polynesian storytelling can embellish things a little. The Faaroa River is the only navigable waterway in French Polynesia and it can be traveled by powerboat or outrigger canoe. Running through the Faaroa Gorge it passes some spectacular scenery with steep-walled jungle foliage holding dozens of bird species and wild hibiscus. Trekking up Mount Temehani, a well-known landmark that's said to be Oro's birthplace, is relatively demanding. Keep a lookout for the rare, five-petal tiare apetahi. Said to be impossible to grow anywhere else, this white, indigenous flower can only be found above 1,300 feet (396 meters). Look, but don't touch. It's against the law to pick them. Dining Raiatea has a good selection of restaurants with an across-the-board selection of food ranging from French to Polynesian, Chinese, and Italian. This is a "boatie" or "yachtie" type environment with a number of the better-known dining places clustered around Uturoa's harbor; things can get quite busy on Friday and Saturday nights. Seafood is always outstanding on the menu but the selection should satisfy most diners, though they may find the wine list more constricting. It should perhaps be pointed out that many of the restaurants are as much noted for their outstanding views or sunsets as for the food. Another way of dining are les roulottes which are found here and on other islands in Polynesia. The name means basically "rolling food trucks" and they supply simple island food, usually on the cheap side. They are a favorite of many locals who either eat at the truck or take the food home. Hotels There are only two hotels on the island but a number of pensions or lodging places. Shopping As is typical across the Pacific, the locals in Raiatea shop for fresh food, including fish, at the local market. Located near the harbor on the main street, the market also sells arts and crafts. It opens at sunrise, and Wednesday and Friday are the busiest days. The freshest produce is sold on Sunday, but before dawn—the market closes at 7 am on Sunday. Jean Luc Liaut Both islands have an active community of artisans, but one of the more unusual is Jean Luc Liaut, a native Raiatean whose fishing boat Te Manu Ata is based in Uturoa and is available for charter. He has turned handmade fishing lures into an art form, and his products are sought globally. Hawaiki Nui Federation The usual art and handicraft shops sell a wide variety of woodcarvings and shell and pearl items, with most guaranteed to have been locally made. Local artists often sell at the Hawaiki Nui Federation at Uturoa airport and the Maritime Harbor.

Although it lies between Moorea and Bora Bora, Huahine (pronounced Hu-a-hee-nee or Wha-hee-nee) isn't on the tourist circuit just yet, but it should be. Its near-deserted roads and villages and wooded hills entwined with jungle vines beckon those looking for a little R&R.Huahine is two islands (Huahine Nui and Huahine Iti) joined by a bridge. What passes for action takes place in the main town of Fare (pronounced far-ay) on Huahine Nui, the northern and bigger island. Away from this little port, life is slow-paced and you'll be lucky to find anyone stirring on a lazy afternoon in any of the villages of Huahine Iti. Most locals ride bicycles and agriculture's still the main industry—plantations grow vanilla and melons. There are various legends surrounding the island's name. Some say that hua> means "sex" and hine means "woman," while others say the name means "pregnant woman" due to a rock outline on Huahine Nui's Fitii Peninsula. Then there's the legend of Hiro, Polynesia's most famous god. It's said that Hiro rammed his canoe into the island, splitting it down the middle. Not far from the town of Maroe is a rock spire called Te Moa o Hiro or "penis of Hiro"—you can't miss it. It's easy to explore Huahine (75 square km [47 square mi]) by rental car, as there is really only one road, albeit with a few forks in it. When you cross the bridge into Huahine Iti you can go either left to Maroe or right to Parea. The road to Haapu leads off to a dead end. When crossing from Huahine Iti to Nui the same rule applies. Take the left fork to the "busy" town of Fare and the right fork to the "sacred eel" village of Faaie, via the Belvedere lookout. Hiring your own boat allows you to circle the island and anchor at the motu; a couple of self-catering villas provide both a car and a boat. There are only one or two restaurants on Huahine Iti; you either eat at your pension, choose a pension with cooking facilities, or drive up to Fare for a wider, though still rather limited, choice. Dining Hotels and most pensions have restaurants and can offer half-board (MAP) options, while some small establishments include breakfast and airport transfers. Most of the island's independent restaurants are in Fare. You'll find similar menus at most restaurants and these usually include poisson cru, shrimp, and grilled fish, meat, and lobster—most accompanied with vanilla sauce—as well as desserts like coconut tart with vanilla ice cream. Independent restaurants tend to be cheaper and serve bigger portions. There are a couple of roulottes at the wharf in Fare, which sell chow mein, lemon chicken, stir-fries, rice, and pizza. Prices are around 1,100 CFP a dish and portions are big. Tipping is not expected, but will of course be accepted. Hotels Don't expect a variety of luxurious accommodations on Huahine. There are only two hotels and only one—the newly renamed Te Tiare Beach Pearl Resort—has overwater bungalows. There are, however, some funky accommodations in Huahine Iti, such as comfortable "tents" with fabulous furnishings and a couple of very good value for money self-catering villas on Huahine Nui where a car and boat come with the daily rate. Nightlife If you're looking for nightlife you've definitely come to the wrong place. Nightlife consists of dinner and a few drinks at your hotel or pension—most restaurants, both resort and independent, start closing their doors around 9 pm. Shopping If you're after jewelry, a pareo, or some surf gear—in Tahitian designs—you'll find them in Fare's port area; there's one long street of shops. You'll have to venture across the lagoon for pearls. Vivi et Vonvon Vivi et Vonvon is a restaurant with a small bookshop attached that specializes in children's books and books on French Polynesia—most are in French. Exotica Shop Exotica Shop has an eclectic mixture of clothes, jewelry, and gifts, but the range is not really Polynesian. It's on the second level of a small retail complex near the tourism bureau. Fare Super Nui Fare Super Nui is a huge supermarket that carries everything from wine and beer to milk, snorkeling gear, and clothes. It even has pigs ready for roasting. This is the hub of life in Huahine. Magasin Vaimoe Magasin Vaimoe is just one of several small "corner stores" that dot the island's main road. Usually called Magasins, they sell water, beer, snacks, and a limited (and often quite expensive) range of groceries. Huahine Pearl Farm Huahine Pearl Farm has loose pearls and pearl jewelry, as well as pottery crafted by ex-Californian Peter Owen and his Tahitian-born wife Ghislaine. Take the free boat transfer over to the motu off the village of Faaie, which leaves every 15 minutes. Mauariki Creations French artist Bertho Franck hand paints pareos in a little studio tucked away in a garden on the main road, a few miles away from Pension Mauarii. They are priced from 2,080 to 2,500 CFP. Just ring to see if it's open, or drive down—it's only 20 to 30 minutes from Fare by car and very scenic. Magasin Chez Hine A short drive from Pension Mauarii, this small "corner store" sells beer, water, soft drinks, ice cream, packaged snacks, and a small range of groceries such as tinned food and eggs. Local Style Local Style has a colorful range of surf gear including the Tahitian label, Hinano. There also are shorts, shirts, and bikinis.

If you have ever dreamt up your ideal island holiday, we suspect it goes something like this: Soapy blue seas? Check. Sparkling white beaches? Check. Thatched wooden huts, gently sloping palm trees and kaleidoscopic marine life? Check, check and check. And yet, even by ticking every box, first time viewing of Bora Bora still beggars belief. This tropical hideaway less than 12 m2 in the heart of the South Pacific has been toping travel wish lists for years. Long considered the realm of honeymooners – spectacularly romantic sunsets are a speciality – Bora Bora is not just for wandering with your love. If the prismatic shades of blue of the world’s most beautiful lagoon do not fill you up, then perhaps underwater scooters and aqua Safaris will charge your batteries. If exploring Bora Bora’s lush hinterland is more your glass of tequila sunrise, then trips around the island (often stopping off at the celebrity haunt Bloody Mary Restaurant & Bar) are a must. Bora Bora's peaceful ambience has not always been the case. The island was a US supply base, known as "Operation Bobcat" during WWII. During this time, Bora Bora was home to nine ships, 20,000 tons of equipment and nearly 7,000 men. Eight massive 7-inch naval cannons were installed around the island, all but one of which is still in place. Although little is known of the history of the island, it is known that Bora Bora was called Vava’u in ancient times. This supports belief that the island was colonised by Tongans prior to French annex in 1888.

If you have ever dreamt up your ideal island holiday, we suspect it goes something like this: Soapy blue seas? Check. Sparkling white beaches? Check. Thatched wooden huts, gently sloping palm trees and kaleidoscopic marine life? Check, check and check. And yet, even by ticking every box, first time viewing of Bora Bora still beggars belief. This tropical hideaway less than 12 m2 in the heart of the South Pacific has been toping travel wish lists for years. Long considered the realm of honeymooners – spectacularly romantic sunsets are a speciality – Bora Bora is not just for wandering with your love. If the prismatic shades of blue of the world’s most beautiful lagoon do not fill you up, then perhaps underwater scooters and aqua Safaris will charge your batteries. If exploring Bora Bora’s lush hinterland is more your glass of tequila sunrise, then trips around the island (often stopping off at the celebrity haunt Bloody Mary Restaurant & Bar) are a must. Bora Bora's peaceful ambience has not always been the case. The island was a US supply base, known as "Operation Bobcat" during WWII. During this time, Bora Bora was home to nine ships, 20,000 tons of equipment and nearly 7,000 men. Eight massive 7-inch naval cannons were installed around the island, all but one of which is still in place. Although little is known of the history of the island, it is known that Bora Bora was called Vava’u in ancient times. This supports belief that the island was colonised by Tongans prior to French annex in 1888.

Papeete is the center of the tropical paradise of French Polynesia where islands fringed with gorgeous beaches and turquoise ocean await to soothe the soul. This spirited city is the capital of French Polynesia and serves as a superb base for onward exploration of Tahiti – an island of breathtaking landscapes and oceanic vistas. A wonderful lagoon of crisp clear water begs to be snorkelled stunning black beaches and blowholes pay tribute to the island's volcanic heritage and lush green mountains beckon you inland on adventures as you explore extraordinary Tahiti. Visit to relax and settle into the intoxicating rhythm of life in this Polynesian paradise.