Incheon to Tokyo

B The bright lights of neighbouring big city Seoul might burn brightly but Incheon, just 27 kilometres away, has nothing to be ashamed of. The coastal city was the first to open its borders to the world in 1883, and as such has always enjoyed a special relationship with the west. So much so that it was granted “English Status” in 2007, with many residents priding themselves on their command of the language. The city’s love of English has made it a business powerhouse so expect soaring skyscrapers and smart technology as part of the landscape. Incheon was also the first to welcome the Chinese and today the city’s Chinatown is one of the most vibrant and welcoming there is. A frenetic and exciting hybrid of Chinese and Korean heritage, it is said that Jjajangmyeon (black soy bean noodles), South Korea’s de facto national dish originates from here. Try a steaming bowl from one of the many vendors, then walk it off with the short 15-minute stroll from Chinatown to the traditional Sinpo Market for different kind of sensational feast. The city is steeped in history, notably in recent times during the Korean War. In 1950, the US general General MacArthur led UN forces behind enemy lines in freeing the city from North Korean pressure. MacArthur’s victory is commemorated by a statue in the Jaya (Freedom) Park. The city’s history of course goes back much further, with the first historical record dating as far back as 475 CE. At the time the city was called Michuhol, only changing its name to Incheon in 1413.

Days at sea are the perfect opportunity to relax unwind and catch up with what you’ve been meaning to do. So whether that is going to the gym, visiting the spa, whale watching, catching up on your reading or simply topping up your tan these blue sea days are the perfect balance to busy days spent exploring shore side.

Utterly devastated in just a few seconds, Nagasaki was the target of the second US atomic bomb, as World War II moved towards its horrifying conclusion. More than 50,000 were killed, and the stories here are harrowing and poignant. The fact that Nagasaki still stands at all, and has embarked on a new mission to promote global peace with a message of hope, is a testament to the people of this extraordinary place, however. The scars the city wears will never heal, but the colour, culture and creativity of Nagasaki may surprise you. Of course, the events of August 9th 1945 are unavoidable, and the Atomic Bomb Museum pulls no punches in its rendering of the story. Hear from survivors, known as ‘Hibakushas’, who speak at the centre, sharing tales of sadness, hope and resilience. The Memorial Hall is a glass structure of meditation and messages of peace left by visitors from every corner of the world. Nagasaki Peace Park honours the victims, while the Hypocenter Park marks the explosion's epicentre. Suwa Shrine stands just 800 metres away, and you can see the iconic, one-legged torii which was photographed, miraculously still standing amid the sea of devastation. Look out for the temple's scarred trees, which somehow survived the blast too. Look out over the city, nestled in the undulations of the valley – as you reach the top of Mount Inasa - which actually served to protect and shelter Nagasaki from even more destruction. Up here, you can't help but consider the city's journey - as it spreads out before you. A ropeway or a bus will help you reach this spectacular vantage point, to observe the harbour glittering and glistening peacefully.

Boasting Japan’s heady cocktail of hot springs, gourmet food, abundant nature and spiritual history, Kyushu Island has all the advantages of the mainland, while enjoying its own identity. The island is the third largest of Japan’s five island provinces and prides itself on having everything you could expect from the Land of the Rising Sun. The capital of the island, Fukuoka, is Japan in a bite sized morsel. As one of the country’s most strategic ports – it is closer to Seoul than Tokyo – the city has enjoyed a somewhat prestigious status over the years, including two unsuccessful Mongol invasion attempts in the 13th century. Some scholars suggest that the city is also the first place the Imperial Family set foot, although actual proof of this is scarce. What is certain however is that it was once the home of the samurai, with many samurai related spots found all over the city. A trip to the Kyushu National Museum will allow budding actors to try on traditional costumes and channel their inner feudal lord, while local shrines, tranquil Zen gardens and castle ruins all offer a chance to relive the city’s glory days. The city itself is made up of two smaller towns (Fukuoka and Hakata), and despite unification in 1889, Hakata is still considered the centre. A 2018 survey ranked the city number 22 on “the world’s most liveable cities” list, due to its excellent shopping, outstanding food, excellent transport links, good museums, “feeling of openeness”, green spaces and friendly, safe, environment.

Sakaiminato is a small city almost totally surrounded by water: the Sea of Japan to the east the Sakai Channel to the north and Lake Nakaumi to the west. Across the lake the towns of Matsue and Yasugi offer interesting experiences. Matsue is known as the “Town of Water” next to scenic Lake Shinji and Lake Nakaumi. It has one of the very few wooden castles that still remain in Japan. Touring the castle and boat rides on the Horikawa River and the castle’s moat are popular. Yasugi has the Adachi Museum of Art a private museum that houses one of the finest collections of contemporary Japanese paintings but also has a 165 000 square metres garden –with plants and rocks collected by the museum’s founder. Six different gardens show different scenarios depending on the season. These gardens have been selected as “Japan’s best garden” for several years.

The red-brick city of Maizuru sits pretty on the coast of Kyoto prefecture, welcoming you to a Japanese region of grace and elegant beauty. Nature puts on a spectacular display each season, which rivals the city's esteemed neighbour Kyoto. Summer's parks bloom with bright reds and yellows, while winter’s snow adds a white fairytale highlight to the city. Spring's cherry blossom season is undoubtedly the most magical, however, spilling pale pink across the grounds of Tanabe Castle and beyond. Look over this city of colour, and the island sprinkled Maizuri Bay, by rising to the top of the Goro Sky Tower, which is nestled on the slopes of Gorogadake mountain. The huge fish market is a Maizuri institution, where you can watch locals bartering and bantering over the fresh morning’s catch and elusive snow crab. The sleek white sand beaches nearby tempt Japanese holidaymakers and visitors alike to Maizuru's pretty coastline. The ivy coated, red-brick warehouses and military barracks have a slightly eerie, Cold-War feel to them - and historic rumours of North Korean spies landing on these darkened coves are still whispered. Maizuru Brick Park is home to the most impressive red brick buildings, and you can tour the collection of museums and studios - including one dedicated to the humble brick itself. Sample some local cuisine by trying nikujaga - a stew of meat, potato and onion in a salty broth of soya sauce. If you’re feeling mischievous, try your luck by daring to suggest that the dish originated in nearby Kure – the two cities are locked in an endless dispute over its true origins.

The capital of the Ishikawa Prefecture, Kanazawa once rivalled Kyoto and Edo (Tokyo) as a town rich in cultural achievements. Kanazawa escaped destruction during World War II and accordingly has been able to preserve many of the old districts in good shape. The city is famous because of Kenrokuen. Located next to Kanazawa Castle, Kenrokuen is classified as “One of the Three Gardens of Japan”. The garden has an artificial pond, and hills and houses are dotted within the 11.4 hectares. It has Japan’s oldest fountain using natural water pressure and a tea-house dating back to 1774. Close by is the Higashi Chaya Gai Geisha District, designated a National Cultural Asset and the biggest of the Geisha districts of Kanazawa. Some of the houses not only retain the original structure, but still are used as Geisha houses. Some of the streets have traditional shops creating a nostalgic atmosphere. Kanazawa is also known for its lacquer ware, Kutani-style pottery, gold-leaf workmanship and delicately painted silk kimonos.

A sophisticated sake capital, Niigata is an intoxicating, creative place of Japanese traditions and flavours. Learn of the many crafts and creativities that are practised here, from kite-making to alcohol fermentation and ceramic work, and immerse yourself in the beautiful coastline and waterfall-laced mountains of Niigata prefecture. The city evolves with each season, taking on a new appearance - whether it's the thick layers of snow during winter, or the cherry blossoms of spring. Look out for the gorgeous curved black roof tiers of Shibata Castle, rising from a picturesque bed of pale-pink flowers. Sitting overlooking the Sea of Japan, out towards the intrigues of Sado Island, where the rare Toki bird - with its scythe-like beak - lives protected. This busy port city is famous for the high-quality and pure taste of its rice. As a result, sake produced here is among Japan's finest, and distilleries will teach you the artistry behind its creation, and to appreciate the subtle flavours. Pia Bandai market is a bustling place to take a stroll and sip a morning coffee. Japan’s first public park, Hakusan Park was built in 1873 and is perfect for whiling away an afternoon, among drifting lotus flowers and swaying trees. Appreciate a magical tea ceremony in the Edo-era Shimizu-en Gardens, or savour the tranquillity of the peaceful Hakusan Shrine - dedicated to the god of marriage.

From fiery festivals to spectacular mountain scenery, soaring temples to castles surrounded by cherry blossom blooms, Aomori is one of Japan’s most enchanting destinations. Framed by dark peaks clad with dense forestry, the city enjoys a picturesque location on Japan’s main island Honshu. While there are gorgeous pink tinted parks, tiered castles and towering Buddha statues to explore, the Aomori Prefecture’s capital is perhaps best known for the summer festival of fire that lights it up each year. Lavish illuminated floats fill the streets during Nebuta Matsuri festival, as dancing locals wave flickering lanterns through the night sky - and drummers pound out pulsating rhythms. Nebuta Matsuri has a euphoric and energetic atmosphere which makes it stand out as an unmissable experience compared with some of Japan’s more restrained festivals. At other times of the year, places like the stunning Hirosaki Castle bloom with rose-pink cherry blossom, as spring’s sunshine clears away winter’s plentiful snowfall. The castle’s moat, glowing with the pale hue of fallen blossom, is a truly mesmerising sight to behold. Don’t worry if you’re too late though, you might be able to catch the pink-flush of the apple blossom - which comes slightly later. Extraordinary prehistoric Jomon period history is waiting to be unearthed at the living archaeological site, Sannai-Maruyama Ruins. Or, the untouched wilderness of UNESCO World Heritage Site Shirakami Sanchi is within reach. This sprawling mass of beech trees covers a third of the Shirakami mountain range, and the dense forestry once blanketed the majority of northern Japan’s land. Visit to scratch the surface of this untamed landscape’s beauty and see sprawling waterfalls cascading down mountainsides, in a beautiful off-bounds landscape, where black bears roam freely.

Gaze down over Hakodate, from the heights of its namesake peak - Mount Hakodate - to see the city stretching out spectacularly, with back-to-back twin bays splitting the ocean. Hakodate port was one of the first to open Japan up to the world, and to international trade in 1859 - a fact reflected in the architecture, with its influences from the West and beyond. The port area is a redbrick wash of warehouses turned shopping malls, all observed by the onion domes of the city's Russian Orthodox church. Elsewhere, the star-shaped Goryokaku fortress glows with natural colours and a beautiful haze of cherry blossom during the season. Goryokaku Tower, which rises up beside it, offers a sweeping bird's eye view of the green fortress and mountain backdrop. Buses trundle up the 335-metre incline to the top of Mount Hakodate, but the best way to reach the views is to jump on the ropeway, which swings high above downtown's buildings, over a carpet of pine trees. Head up to the mountain's heights as sunset approaches. With darkness sweeping in, and the lights flickering to life, the panorama is one of Japan's most spectacular. Soak it all in, and look out to the horizon, dotted with the shimmering lights of ships hauling in harvests of the city's renowned squid. The plankton-rich waters attract a delicious variety of feasting sea life to Hakodate's coast, which is then plated up in the city's numerous, skilled restaurants. For an eye-opening, whirring morning, see the freshest produce being doled out at Hakodate Morning Market – amid a cacophony of noise and activity.

Set on the eastern coast in Japan’s Iwate prefecture, Miyako promises stunning scenery and Jorman history in equimeasure. The coastal city of around 50,000 inhabitants is around 600 km from Tokyo, but boasts one of the finest beaches in Japan, as well as a treasure trove of succulently fresh seafood restaurants. While travellers to Miyako might arrive expecting the usual amalgam of cultural attractions and high tech wizardry, they will leave with memories of one of the greatest garden cities they have ever experienced. During the Edo period (1603-1868) the town was considered as Japan’s main seaport. Today this is no longer the case, perhaps due to Miyako’s precarious placement and underwater seismic activity; four tsunamis have engulfed the city since 1700, with waves reaching almost 40 metres in some cases. Thus, local attractions tend to be of the natural kind, as historical buildings have been all but wiped out. Luckily, Mother Nature really does come into her own in Miyako. The city is bordered by the Sanriku Fukkō National Park, one of the National Parks of Japan. Sanriku Fukkō stretches for 180 km along the coast and homes a wonderful variety of flora and fauna, including groves of Japanese red pine, rhododendrons and Rosa rugosa. Numerous bird species, including the black-tailed gull and shearwater call the park home. What’s more, bird lovers will undoubted love that the nearby Hidejima Island and Sanganjima Island are the only breeding grounds in Japan for the band-rumped storm-petrel.

Days at sea are the perfect opportunity to relax unwind and catch up with what you’ve been meaning to do. So whether that is going to the gym, visiting the spa, whale watching, catching up on your reading or simply topping up your tan these blue sea days are the perfect balance to busy days spent exploring shore side.

Dense and delightful, there’s nowhere else like Japan’s kinetic capital - a city where ancient traditions blend seamlessly with a relentless pursuit for the future’s sharpest edge. See the city from above, as elevators rocket you up to towering viewing platforms, from which you can survey a vast urban ocean, interspersed with sky-scraping needles. Look out as far as the distant loom of Mount Fuji’s cone on clear days. Futuristic – second-accurate - transport seamlessly links Tokyo’s 14 districts, while the glow of flashing advertisement boards, clanks of arcade machines, and waves of humanity flowing along its streets, adds to the sense of mesmerising, dizzying and glorious sensory overload. One of Tokyo’s most iconic sights, don’t miss the flood of people scrambling to cross Shibuya’s famous intersection. Join the choreographed dance, as crowds of briefcase-carrying commuters are given the green light to cross at the same time – bathed in the light of massive neon advertisements. The culture is immensely rich and deep, with 7th-century, lantern-decorated temples, stunning palaces and tranquil scarlet shrines waiting below cloaks of incense and nestling between soaring skyscrapers. Restaurants serve up precisely prepared sushi, and wafer-thin seafood slivers, offering a unique taste of the country’s refined cuisine. Settle into traditional teahouses, to witness intricate ceremonies, or join the locals as they fill out karaoke bars to sing the night away. In the spring, cherry blossom paints a delicate pink sheen over the city’s innumerable parks and gardens.