Athens to Athens

A city of legend, civilisation and enduring culture, Athens is a majestic and magical urban sprawl. Extraordinary elegance and grace combine with grit and graft in Greece's capital, where highways encase ruins from antiquity, and gleaming museums and galleries stand beside concrete sprayed with edgy street art. These contrasts enhance and elevate the wonders of this 2,500-year-old city, however, which can count notable contributions to philosophy, drama and democracy, among its global legacy. Piraeus' giant port and naval base welcome you to the edge of the Athens' urban area. From there it's a simple jaunt to the centre. The majestic ancient citadel of the Acropolis dominates an elevated platform and is a constant presence as you explore the city. The wonderful remains of the columned temple of the Parthenon - which date back to the 5th century BC - stand here, representing the pinnacle of classical architecture. The nearby Acropolis Museum adds context to your visit and frames the broad views from its giant glass windows. Or rise up Mount Lycabettus, to be rewarded with perhaps Athens' best panorama of the Acropolis sitting high over the city on its grand stage. See the marble horseshoe of the Old Olympic Stadium, where the first modern Olympics were held in 1896, for more of the city's enduring legacy. Elsewhere, golden beaches and temples stretch out along the coastline, should you wish to explore a little further afield. Coffee is an art form to the Greeks, and it's an unwritten rule that coffee time must never be rushed. So prepare to settle down for a couple of hours and lose yourself in a good chat. Feeling hungry - try traditional souvlaki made with sauces handed from generation to generation.

Greece’s first capital remains the escape of choice for Athenians, who weekend here to indulge in the town's gorgeous seaside setting. One of the country's most romantic towns, the warm colour palette and tempting, island-sprinkled waters, pull on plenty of heartstrings. With perfect beaches, crystal clear waters for swimming, and evocative fortress-capped mountains, Nafplion is a sun-soaked Greek beauty. A gorgeous blend of Greek, Byzantine, Venetian and Ottoman influences, stroll the seafront promenade and soak up the ambience in tavernas and bars. Head into the warren of an old town, which is full of narrow streets, neoclassical architecture and pink-flowered trees drooping over walls. Located on the hill that towers over Nafplion, Palamidi Fortress is a Venetian castle built in 1714, and its steep walls flow dramatically down the slope. If you're feeling brave, a slog of 857 steps will take you to the top to see beautiful views across Nafplion and the Argolic Gulf. Acronafplia fortress is Nafplion's oldest castle, and its walls enclosed the entire town until the 13th century. Just offshore, the Venetian Bourtzi fortress rises on a tiny islet, a short boat ride away across the glistening waters. Venetians built this harbour fortress to protect the town before it later housed the official executioner. Today its hardy walls shake to music, during its summer festival, and the castle enjoys a gorgeous view back over the waves to the town's humming waterfront. Ancient cities like Corinth lie close by, recovered and unearthed after being wiped from history by immense earthquakes.

Though the harbor is picturesque from a distance—especially from a ferry docking at sunset, when a violet-orange light casts a soft glow and the lights on the hills behind the quay start twinkling like faint stars—Skiathos town close-up has few buildings of any distinction. Many traditional houses were burned by the Germans in 1944, and postwar development has pushed up cement apartments between the pleasant, squat, red-roof older houses. Magenta bougainvillea, sweet jasmine, and the casual charm of brightly painted balconies and shutters camouflage most of the eyesores as you wander through the narrow lanes and climb up the steep steps that serve as streets. Activity centers on the waterfront or on Papadiamantis, the main drag, with banks, travel agents, telephones, post offices, police and tourist police stations, plus myriad cafés, fast-food joints, postcard stands, tacky souvenir shops, tasteful jewelry stores, and car- and bike-rental establishments. Shops, bars, and restaurants line the cobbled side streets, where you can also spot the occasional modest hotel and rooms-to-rent signs. The east side of the port (more commonly known as the new port), where the larger boats and Flying Dolphin hydrofoils dock, is not as interesting. The little church and clock tower of Ayios Nikolaos watch over it from a hill reached by steps so steep they're almost perpendicular to the earth. Arts/Entertainment Cinema Attikon To enjoy the silver screen under the summer stars spend a few hours at Attikon Cinema, which screens three different films per week and two English language films per night (with a regular tribute to Mamma Mia), from 9 pm on. Dining Ta Psarädika You can't get any closer to the fish market than this family-run taverna, and the fresh seafood dishes (served grilled or fried) prove it. Sit outside facing the sea and sip an icy ouzo while sampling a variety of mezedes (appetizers), or if you prefer a heartier meal, try some of the finny creatures: mussels steamed in wine, or the taverna's specialty of fresh swordfish with a rosemary, garlic, raisin and honey sauce, or a seafood pasta with tomato sauce. Psaradika also serve fresh and boiled salads, grilled meats and a few traditional home-style dishes like the oil-based ladera stuffed tomatoes and a creamy moussaka. Don Quijote Tapas Bar Restaurant The tapas bar, a rare type of restaurant to find not only on Skiathos but in the country overall, will provide you with a pleasant change of flavor and scene. Its colorful selection of hot and cold tapas includes classic Spanish eats such as paella and jamon (Spanish crude ham) as well as Greek-inspired appetizers, to be savored with a local or Spanish wine, or a refreshing mojito. Try also the tuna tartare, made with fresh local tuna and seasoned with a zingy lime and coriander dressing. The Catalan cream (a Spanish version of crème brûlée) or the chocolate soufflé make for two sweet finales. A friendly waitstaff is happy is happy to advise you on dishes as you take in the expansive harbor view, intoxicated by the lively atmosphere—but not the noise—of the main town below. Amphiliki Set on a balcony overlooking Siferi bay, this restaurant, open throughout the day, pairs an inviting ozonic breeze with one of the most sprawling views in town. The menu is focused on fresh local fish, and the latest additions to the menu are an entrée of fresh tuna fillet sautéed with onion and lemon and "Chef" mussels cooked in a mustard and feta sauce. Owner Christos takes pride in the organic vegetables he serves, which are all sourced from his own garden. Service is attentive and the white house wine crisp and refreshing. Leave space for the feather-light traditional ekmek (custard cake) with mastic ice cream or try the restaurant's cheesecake if you prefer a more western dessert. The Windmill Escape the buzz of Skopelos town by climbing up the hill above Ayios Nikolaos to dine at this well restored 1880s mill–turned–unpretentiously elegant restaurant. Run by Scottish Karen McCann, the Windmill offers the town's most awesome views of the moonlit harbor accompanied by a gourmet rendition of British pub dishes with a breezy Mediterranean and southeast Asian twist. Start with the calamari with Parmesan crumb, chilli, and ginger dip, then sample the popular char-grilled fillet of beef (with a choice of sauces such as peppercorn or mushroom and bacon) before ending with a rich dessert. The Windmill has a little balcony that seats two, which places diners at the highest spot above the town; if you'd like to dine at new heights, book this coveted perch way in advance. Nightlife Slip Inn Slip Inn is liked for its good coffee during the day while at night it transforms into a funky lounge where passion-fruit margaritas are best enjoyed resting on one elbow, Dionysian style, on multicolor floor cushions. Kentavros Bar The popular Kentavros Bar entertains a young professional crowd with rhythm and blues, funk, soul, and classic rock starting at 9:30 pm. Rock 'n' Roll Rock 'n' Roll, located at the far eastern end of the harbor, is a trendy bar that serves more than 100 exotic cocktails to a mainly youthful crowd and has a DJ from 9:30 pm. Kahlua For late-night action along a row of hopping clubs, head to Kahlua, which has indoor and outdoor dancing and is open in summer until at least 3 am. Bourtzi Café For a real change of pace take a gentle stroll to a lesser known café/bar at the tip of the Bourtzi fortress' promontory. Here, like the locals, you can enjoy an affordable seaside drink away from the madding crowds. Shopping Seraïna Greek jewelry, original-looking glass lampshades, and a variety of ceramic plates are among the wares here. Galerie Varsakis Kilims, embroideries, jewelry, icons, and hundreds of antiques from around the world are available here, all set off by proprietor Charalambos Varsaki's impressive surrealistic paintings and prints. Also noteworthy is his collection of guns and swords dating to 1780-1820 and used in the Greek War of Independence. Simos Jewellery in 14 karat and 18 karat yellow and white gold, and more recently in silver, are Simos specialties, from simple designs to classical Greece-inspired baubles encrusted with precious stones. Phaedra Celebrating jewellery-making with an artsy twist, Phaedra showcases silver and gold pieces that are part of collections by noteworthy Greek designers. Sights Papadiamantis Museum The House of Papadiamantis is a tribute to one of Greece's finest writers, Alexandros Papadiamantis (1851–1911), lauded by some as "the Greek Dostoyevsky." His native Skiathos played a prominent role in his essays, short stories, and novels, as did plots strongly inspired by the human condition, war, pirate invasions, the Greek Orthodox faith, captivity, and simple rural life. Several of his novels have been translated into English, including the internationally acclaimed The Murderess. The exhibits here deal with the author's daily life, ranging from his furniture and personal belongings to vintage photographs. Bourtzi A lovely physical feature of Skiathos harbor—standing on a small, piny peninsula that divides the main port—the Bourtzi was a fortress built in 1207 by the Venetian Gyzi brothers to protect Skiathos from pirate attacks. Not much remains of the original building, also called "the castle of St. George," yet the cultural center here hosts wonderful events every summer, particularly in July and August, when art and antiquities exhibitions and open-air performances entertain tourists and locals alike. It's well worth taking in the view of the harbor from the tranquil, refreshing spots found here; west of the waterfront you'll see the fishing port where caïques come and go. The sidewalk is increasingly filled with cafés and ouzeris(ouzo bars) and, at the far end of the port beginning at the square and set around the 1846 church of Trion Hierarchon, more elegant restaurants spread out under awnings. There is also a café-bar at the Bourtzi itself.

Nestled ideally between the gentle lapping waves of the Pagasetic Gulf and Mount Pelion, Volos is a Greek seaside town worth visiting. The town enjoys a near mythic status as being home of Jason and his Argonauts, and that, along with its reputation for being ‘Land of the Centaurs’ should go some way to illustrating the degree of ancient history to be found in Volos. The city was severely damaged in an earthquake in 1955 which regrettably means that much of the 19th-century architecture has been lost or damaged. A few traces do remain however, fine examples of neo-classical architecture that are hidden away around the town. If you want your history a little older than that, the superb archaeology museum will both surprise and delight you. Not only will you find objects from the Ancient Greek era but recent excavations have unearthed artefacts from the first Neolithic settlements of Dimini and Sesklo. The city itself is flat and easy to negotiate on foot. Or better still, make like the locals and hire a bike to cycle the city. For those feeling a little more adventurous, the 8-mile cycle up Mont Pelion rewards the sporty cycler with traditional stone tavernas and breathtaking views of the region. If relaxing closer to home is more your glass of ouzo, make for Palia, the old part of Volos, famous for having some of the finest cuisine on the mainland. Head into the narrow alleys, order a tsipouradika (a combination of traditional spirit served with local mezze) and enjoy.

Thessaloniki: the former Jerusalem of the Balkans Founded in the 4th century BC by a friend of Alexander the Great, the city replaced Pella, whose access channel from the sea had become blocked over time. Four and a half centuries later, in 50 AD, Thessaloniki became the very first place of preaching in Christianity when the Apostle Paul came to convert the Greek pagans. Three centuries later, it was still in Thessalonica that the three Emperors reigning over the Roman Empire in 380 signed the Edict of Thessalonica, making the Christian religion the official - and only - religion of the Roman Empire. However, a few centuries later, when the city came under Ottoman rule, it was not the Christians, or even the Muslims, who were in the majority. In fact, from the 16th century until the beginning of the 20th century, it was the Jewish community that made up the bulk of the city's inhabitants - up to 70,000 at the beginning of the 20th century - earning it the nicknames Mother of Jerusalem or Jerusalem of the Balkans. The city's Jewish cemetery, razed in 1942 and since replaced by the Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, housed an estimated 500,000 graves, making it the largest Jewish cemetery in Europe and probably the world. It is thanks to one of the members of this community that one of the city's emblems owes its name: the White Tower. Built in the fifteenth century by the Ottomans to replace an earlier Byzantine fortification, it was long used as a prison, torture and execution chamber, earning it the name of the Blood Tower. A name that the authorities of the time wanted to 'whitewash'. A Jewish convict, Nathan Guiledi, was offered the chance to do it in exchange for his freedom. Although the tower is no longer white, it has kept its name and now houses a museum on the history of the city.

Days at sea are the perfect opportunity to relax unwind and catch up with what you’ve been meaning to do. So whether that is going to the gym, visiting the spa, whale watching, catching up on your reading or simply topping up your tan these blue sea days are the perfect balance to busy days spent exploring shore side.

A chaotic, colossal collision of east and west – start your day in Europe and end it in Asia, all without breaking a sweat. Sprawling across two continents, the city has been toed, froed and yanked between countless civilisations over its history, leaving a multi-layered, majestic tapestry of culture to untangle. An army of narrow minarets puncture the skyline, while the soaring towers of palaces and labyrinths of bazaars - where bargains are the reward for brave hagglers - fill up this dynamic city of 15 million people. With a rich portfolio of Byzantine and Ottoman architecture, Istanbul enjoys one of the world's most dynamic skylines and has an intense, infectious energy. The vast Aya Sofya is the starting point for exploring this huge city's deep wealth of cultural treasures. Built in the 6th century as a Greek Orthodox church, it was later transformed into an Ottoman imperial mosque – and latterly a museum. Cast your eyes up to take in the full scale of the colossal dome, one of the world's largest, which floats on a magnificent bed of light. See the Blue Mosque, with its glorious blue İznik tiles, or head to the Galata Tower which was once the tallest structure in Istanbul, and is ideal for a panoramic view of the city. Grab handfuls of dates and spices, shop for jewellery and patterned fabrics as you're swallowed whole by the Grand Bazaar - one of the world's biggest and busiest covered indoor markets. To understand Istanbul is to visit its kahvehans. Few rituals are taken as seriously as Turkish coffee - prepared to be incredibly strong. Sweeten the aftertaste with Turkish delight, or baklava – try the smooth pistachio version called kuru baklava.

A chaotic, colossal collision of east and west – start your day in Europe and end it in Asia, all without breaking a sweat. Sprawling across two continents, the city has been toed, froed and yanked between countless civilisations over its history, leaving a multi-layered, majestic tapestry of culture to untangle. An army of narrow minarets puncture the skyline, while the soaring towers of palaces and labyrinths of bazaars - where bargains are the reward for brave hagglers - fill up this dynamic city of 15 million people. With a rich portfolio of Byzantine and Ottoman architecture, Istanbul enjoys one of the world's most dynamic skylines and has an intense, infectious energy. The vast Aya Sofya is the starting point for exploring this huge city's deep wealth of cultural treasures. Built in the 6th century as a Greek Orthodox church, it was later transformed into an Ottoman imperial mosque – and latterly a museum. Cast your eyes up to take in the full scale of the colossal dome, one of the world's largest, which floats on a magnificent bed of light. See the Blue Mosque, with its glorious blue İznik tiles, or head to the Galata Tower which was once the tallest structure in Istanbul, and is ideal for a panoramic view of the city. Grab handfuls of dates and spices, shop for jewellery and patterned fabrics as you're swallowed whole by the Grand Bazaar - one of the world's biggest and busiest covered indoor markets. To understand Istanbul is to visit its kahvehans. Few rituals are taken as seriously as Turkish coffee - prepared to be incredibly strong. Sweeten the aftertaste with Turkish delight, or baklava – try the smooth pistachio version called kuru baklava.

Days at sea are the perfect opportunity to relax unwind and catch up with what you’ve been meaning to do. So whether that is going to the gym, visiting the spa, whale watching, catching up on your reading or simply topping up your tan these blue sea days are the perfect balance to busy days spent exploring shore side.

Set on the east of the Greek island Crete Aghios Nikolaos is a place of legend and luxury. Pastel-coloured houses jostle attractively around the pretty harbour and inky lake while busy restaurants and cafes spill out onto its lively waterfront. Life here orbits around Lake Voulismeni and the legendary lake is said to be bottomless and to have been a bathing spot for Greek goddesses Athena and Artemis. Enjoy heavenly views of the water through frames of pretty violet flowers or climb the stone steps for a sweeping panorama of the town lake and seas beyond. With abundant waterfront hours meander past effortlessly in the town’s humming cafes as characters come and go and sunlight flicks off the sparkling waves. Aghios Nikolaos is surrounded by wide scenic beaches and you can choose between Voulisma - where crystal-clear water lolls against fine sand or Almyros – where a refreshing ribbon of cooling freshwater snakes out into warm turquoise seawater. Away from the beaches look for the brightly-frescoed Panagias Keras Church - one of the region’s oldest Byzantine churches - which dates back to the 13th century. Explore local farms to taste fresh oil crushed from plump olives ripened by the generous Cretan sun.

The seahorse-shaped Patmos is a Greek island of stunning seascapes and immense cultural significance.Whether you’re religious or not there is something of the divine in this gorgeous island - a place of sanctuary fringed by crystal-clear waters and blissful beaches. Sleepy whitewash towns gleam in the strong sunshine while cats slink between the crumbling walls of this ruggedly beautiful island. High on the hillside above the cobalt-blue bay you’ll find the sacred chapel where an exiled John of Patmos is said to have entered the Cave of the Apocalypse and prophesied of the end of the world’s fire and brimstone – a striking juxtaposition with the peaceful serenity of the calm location. Higher up you’ll find the 11th-century Monastery of St. John which offers spectacular views of the island’s mounds curving around like a scorpion’s tail. It stands watching over the island like a fortified crown. Sun-wrinkled black-robed monks climb the streets up to this World Heritage site where bells peel out melodically. Inside vaulted chambers and stunning frescoes tell stories amid the striking religious iconography. Chora’s incredible narrow streets - moulded white - are an enchanting place to lose your bearings spreading below the monastery. Elsewhere blissful beaches stretch out across the coastline or this remote Greek island’s curves can be admired while bobbing offshore in a sailboat.

A city of legend, civilisation and enduring culture, Athens is a majestic and magical urban sprawl. Extraordinary elegance and grace combine with grit and graft in Greece's capital, where highways encase ruins from antiquity, and gleaming museums and galleries stand beside concrete sprayed with edgy street art. These contrasts enhance and elevate the wonders of this 2,500-year-old city, however, which can count notable contributions to philosophy, drama and democracy, among its global legacy. Piraeus' giant port and naval base welcome you to the edge of the Athens' urban area. From there it's a simple jaunt to the centre. The majestic ancient citadel of the Acropolis dominates an elevated platform and is a constant presence as you explore the city. The wonderful remains of the columned temple of the Parthenon - which date back to the 5th century BC - stand here, representing the pinnacle of classical architecture. The nearby Acropolis Museum adds context to your visit and frames the broad views from its giant glass windows. Or rise up Mount Lycabettus, to be rewarded with perhaps Athens' best panorama of the Acropolis sitting high over the city on its grand stage. See the marble horseshoe of the Old Olympic Stadium, where the first modern Olympics were held in 1896, for more of the city's enduring legacy. Elsewhere, golden beaches and temples stretch out along the coastline, should you wish to explore a little further afield. Coffee is an art form to the Greeks, and it's an unwritten rule that coffee time must never be rushed. So prepare to settle down for a couple of hours and lose yourself in a good chat. Feeling hungry - try traditional souvlaki made with sauces handed from generation to generation.